The “City of Light” is a remarkable city, unparalleled in many ways. I have had the good fortune to visit this remarkable Capital both in the last two years and in the mid-seventies. It is the same city today more than any other city I have visited in both eras. London, New York and Chicago, for examples, have changed radically. Paris remains Paris.
For starters, Paris is relatively small compared to the above at 2.1 Million people. Secondly and more important, Paris is “flat”. That is, like only Charleston, SC among cities I have visited, Paris is only five stories tall. The central city simply is not allowed to go vertical. Thus, a landmark like the Eiffel Tower, at 1,063 feet, stands out like a pinnacle.
Beginning in the 1850’s Paris was basically rebuilt. Following is a Wikipedia quote on the rebuilding, which is very obvious to visitors today. Note: The Wiki links work as of publication of this piece.
The “renovation of Paris was a vast public works program commissioned by Emperor Napoléon III and directed by his prefect of the Seine, Georges-Eugène Haussmann, between 1853 and 1870. It included the demolition of medieval neighborhoods that were deemed overcrowded and unhealthy by officials at the time; the building of wide avenues; new parks and squares; the annexation of the suburbs surrounding Paris and the construction of new sewers, fountains and aqueducts. Haussmann’s work was met with fierce opposition, and he was finally dismissed by Napoleon III in 1870; but work on his projects continued until 1927. The street plan and distinctive appearance of the center of Paris today is largely the result of Haussmann’s renovation.”
Paris is loaded with historical sites and museums, far too many to mention. So, I will focus on just a few of my personal favorites.
Musée d’Orsay
In 1974, this was a huge, bustling train Station, with tracks and passengers everywhere. The hustle and bustle was quite a shock to this young visitor from Virginia. Although, I had already been to New York, Chicago and London and many other cities, nothing prepared me for this.
Today, it is an art museum specializing in the works of French artists from the second half of the 19th Century until the outbreak of World War I. On the one hand, it is huge, but when compared to the nearby Louvre, it seems rather small. However, because of the layout and the concentration of art by painters such as Monet, Manet and Cezanne as well as several others, it is an extremely enjoyable experience. It can be thoroughly enjoyed in as little as half a day.
The Louvre
The Louvre is perhaps the world’s most famous museum and certainly the best known art museum. Do not go to the Louvre unless you have at least a full day and preferably at least two, to fully appreciate it. Just walking the entire expanse of this monstrous edifice can talk a full day. The building contains over 780,000 square feet. It is laid out so you do not feel you are in such an expansive space as, for example, it seems smaller inside than the d’Orsay or the British Museum of art or even the Smithsonian’s art museum. This is because it is in a very old palace and it was laid out as a museum to maximize the exhibit hall. There are typically over 38,000 items on exhibit. You could literally spend your life in the place.
Where “size” will shock the unsuspecting is the large paintings, some of which cover an entire wall, although they are not painted on the wall. Rembrandt, especially, painted some huge works. At least he painted the outlines and had students fill in the work.
The Eiffel Tower
Located on the bank of the Seine and built for the 1889 World’s Fair, the Eiffel Tower is the most striking landmark in Paris and can be seen from virtually anywhere in the city.
It has an observatory on the first and second levels, both reachable by large lifts. The lift, which requires a ticket, takes you to the second level and coming down you can either go to the ground or stop first at the first level. There also stairs, which still require a ticket. These are for only the very fool-hardy and fit. A separate ticket to the third level, by lift, is available. The third level is at 906 feet.
Nearby, if the subject interests you, is Napoleon’s tomb, which is a rather elaborate mausoleum.
Arc de Triomphe
Although it is generally associated with the Champs-Elysees, it sits at the junction of 12 avenues. I have used a picture from Wikipedia for this one as it is a good place to get killed if you get out in the traffic to get a good picture!
It is beyond me how this was taken unless they shut the streets down for a photo session. We passed it several times on my last visit in taxis and buses. In 1974, the area was less congested but it was still a traffic hazard, so we took a taxi to visit it. Worst driver I ever rode with. Then, there was little, if any, lane control. Yet, the street was capable of handling at least five or more cars side by side in each direction. Of course, the street around it is a one-way roundabout today.
The River Seine
A trip to Paris would not be complete without a boat excursion on the Seine. It is easy to get a ride as they run often with a lot of different lengths and types of cruises. They range from 30 minute trips down the river and back to dinner cruises. There are several places to get a boat ride but the most convenient I found was at the base of the Eiffel Tower. It is only a five minute walk from the tower exit to the boat ramps. Tickets are available at this spot for several cruises. Food is also available in several modest eateries.
Hop On Buses
Like most large cities, Paris has a network of hop on – hop off buses. What makes them especially handy is the fact that the major sites in Paris are close enough together that you do not spend your day mostly just getting from place to place. It still is a large enough route that you waste a lot of time walking. I honestly never rode them, but my wife did on a short side-trip visit from London a few years back.
Notre Dame
While it seems that half the cathedrals in France are named Notre Dame, the one in Paris is special. It is the crown jewel of a visit to the City. Located on a small island in the Seine, it is a “must see” on any trip to Paris. Probably the biggest difference I noticed in Paris in the forty years between my first and last visits to the city was how much cleaner and brighter the cathedral seems now.
The rear, showing its famous flying buttresses and the massive interior during a Sunday Service. The exterior appeared almost black in 1974. It was covered with coal dust. The exterior has been extensively cleaned over the years since then, as have the exteriors of many European cathedrals. The interior, while not black in 1974, was very dark and not very impressive. In 2016, when the above pictures were taken, the interior had been cleaned but it was also much better lit. The benches also seemed to be much nicer and there were many more of them than earlier.
Important advice:
- If you take a city bus somewhere, be sure to know how to get back to your starting point. The bus likely will never come back to where you got off! The return bus will probably leave from a spot a few blocks away. Makes no sense, but you may end up taking a taxi back, otherwise.
- If you have an overnight visit to Paris, stay in the city center as opposed to the outskirts. A lesser room downtown is much more enjoyable than a hotel farther out than say, the Arc de Triomphe. All the best places to eat are more toward the center city. And the use of buses or taxis will eat into the savings on the room.
My Scribbles!! 